Expedition to unchartered terrain

Though I wasn't actively involved in the research, others had been kept on studying the whereabouts and feasibility of reaching another lesser known historical site, hidden within the vast jungle of Kumana (කුමන). Its called Vihara Gal Kanda OR Weheragala Kanda (i.e. විහාර ගල් කන්ද / වෙහෙරගල කන්ද). We were not even sure if these two names are for the same place or if there are two sites. As we heard there are no motorable road to reach this. Also we couldn't find anyone who been to the place, but few clues about its location.

Nihal Fernando had mentioned about this in one of his books and that had ignited the interest within our gang to explore the site. Ven. Ellawala Medhananda thero (එල්ලාවල මේධානන්ද හිමි) said to have had knowledge about this too. Only credible recent record was from Takashi, who is a Japanese archeologist conducted a lot of explorations about ruins of Sri Lanka. He too had reported he visited the place. Niro, Channa and Devana had started their research only with these handful of misty details.

A few years ago our guys (I wasn't in the country, hence couldn't join) managed to reach Thalaguruhela (i.e. තලගුරුහෙල) in the same way with a team of Wildlife officers, which was a success. It had been reported as one of the hardest to reach, that disappointed many well-prepared and well-equipped explorers for decades. 

Anyway, there is no much chance civilians would penetrate the area of Vihara Gal Kanda area since it  is within a national park. In other hand, we cannot rely on illegal hunters who would know the area since its national park. Taking them to guide us could be asking for unwanted trouble. 

When I attended first few discussions to summaries the information gathered by each other and especially the thorough location studies done by Niro based on latest maps and stellate images, it was evident we knew next to nothing about the site. Importantly, Channa and Niro had found one individual who claimed to have gone to the location recently. When ever we try to agree on something it got further complex. Our analysis showed Nihal Fernando's details are not exactly matching with Takashi's location details. Are we talking about two places or one?

Anyway, our enthusiasm pushed us to organize the expedition with all these doubts because there were no other source that would give us a better picture. Though we informed about our expedition to few officers of Department of Wildlife (though not formally!) we didn't inform Forest Department since we were pretty sure getting permissions could be a nightmare. 

As planned, route was going inline with famous Kebiliththe (කැබිලිත්ත) road, then had to divert and start penetrating through the forest at least 8 kms just using direction compose and GPS. Until starting point of the terrain we had to use a tractor from Kotiyagala (කොටියාගල) which is the nearest village where we can prepare ourselves. No other 4WD vehicle will match a tractor in this terrain. 

Using our contacts, we managed to arrange a tractor from Kotiyagala. We decided our points of drop off and pick up in three days. Guy who owns the tractor and also going to drop/ pick us was called Upali, a family man from Kotiyagala, also agreed to allow us using his home to spend the previous night.   

Apart from obstacles we were getting ready to face, I personally had a health issue. Given the weather in Colombo wasn't the best at the time, my feet had serious cracks. When I say serious they were ok to deal with day to day city life, but definitely not for a challenging hike in unchartered terrain. So even before staring the hike I was on antibiotics!

We reached Upali's home by night. Upali was a very pleasant man. So is his wife who was more than helpful with everything she could. After some dinner we started to discuss the plan. Particularly the route was explained to Upali.. where to drop and where to pick up. Our plan was to leave Kotiyagala before sunrise. This will allow us more day time for the expedition before getting dark.

We started the journey early morning. Upali was joined by another young guy called Sandaruwan. First stretch was on a motorable road and sitting on the tailor of the tractor wasn't that bad. Once we entered the rough terrain of the real jungle, it made us realize how difficult to just sit on the tailor of the tractor. In no time, our hips started to pain, due to the jerk. We always had to bend our heads to protect us from thorny branches came on our way, when tractor sneaking through the bush like a noisy monster. 

On the way, there were few wild elephants who were looking at us curiously and ran due to the noise of the tractor engine when go closer. Anyway, this route is not someone would usually go. Given Kabiliththe season was just beginning, no paths nor land marks were clearly visible. At last we ended up going towards a heard of water buffaloes who were been kept for grassing by few cattlemen. Though it is illegal, this has been practiced by cattle owners. They build a temporary shelter and live close to where there cattle is grassing and spending night. One of the cattlemen volunteered to come with us until we are directed to the correct path which was a great help at the time.

On the way we stopped and had the parceled lunch made by Upali's wife. Further we go into the jungle it got thicker. With my limited experience with Kumana National park, I was under the impression we would go through a lot of bushy plains. Thick jungles were also accompanied by stream where tractor had to use all its power to penetrate through. Anyway, at last tractor got stuck in the mud of one of the gorges, called Veli aara (වැලි ආර). Though Uapli and his helper used their own kind of technique to drag out the tractor from the mud, it was evident that we gonna face same again and again. Reluctantly, we decided to start the hike from there, adding more Kms to the hike. After wishing us a safe expedition Upali and his assistant left in the tractor. Now it almost noon and we all are already exhausted. Mammoth task is still to be begun!

I was more concerned about the hike given the terrain is so thick. We should be careful with wild animals in this kind of surrounding since we cannot see far and not easy to run in case of sudden encounter. We didn't have a gun. To be honest, I knew I am not even in my fittest-self.

Anyway, we started hiking through the jungle. We all had to carry a lot. Apart from all our belongings, food and camping equipment, each had to carry at least 5 liters of water. Devana was leading from the front since his instincts are good and Niro frequently checked the GPS and corrected the direction. Biggest hurdle was, we couldn't proceed in the direction we wanted to, since jungle was so thick and thorny, or else is obstructed by a boulder. In some point we came to a small plain with a couple of water holes in near vicinity. While we rest there I told Niro to save the coordinates of the place, if we fail to reach our destination this is a place to stay the night: a plan B. 

After hiking further without much progress, both Channa and Devana too agreed with me of my Plan B. We are not going to make it! We should divert to the little plain and prepare for the night stay. 

A couple of hours before sunset we reached the plain and arranged firewood and had a bath with not so appealing water from one of the water holes. A couple of  bonfires were protecting us but we all decided to stay in alert. Then we were set to spend one of the darkest and nervous nights in the wild. Niro was bit disappointed since we couldn't reach the point he was aiming to. Even in the late night he was studying the map with a light of the torch. We were in tense but night was peaceful.

By the morning, freshly, we all started to discuss our options. Niro was convinced we should penetrate the thick forest and reach our original target which is Vihara Gal Kanda, but none of us felt its feasible. Going ten twenty kilometers in known plain terrain is a different story. Our analysis showed, to go 1 km we may have gone more than 2 - 3 kms in different directions due to obstacles. Even if we make an attempt, it could make further delays and will not be able to meet Upali coming in the tractor to pick us. At last we had to give up the original objective. 

Given we dont have ambitious goal anymore, we now have more room to roam around and see the jungle. After some breakfast we started to walk towards another gorge call Alakola aara (අලකොල ආර). This actually a tribute of Kumbukkan Oya. This was a much peaceful and stress-free hike. Jungle was beautiful and most of all, we were in a position to appreciate it. On the way, we stopped in one place to prepare Tea and also light lunch of Rotti. Alakola aara had been half dried. Bank was wide and specious. 

After spending some time enjoying the beautiful surrounding, we realized sandy floor is the best place to spend that night. For that we should make sure we have bonfires to stop wild animals. Obviously, wild animals could come in search of water. We already saw fresh steps of bears and elephants nearby. In fact, we used one of the special water holes (called Poo wala, i.e පූ වල) made by elephants to fetch water draining below the surface. I can remember we depended on water of poo wala even before in many dry zone hikes including Nuwaragala hike. Once you start carefully digging the poo wala, it starts to pour clean water where you have to collect for drinking and cooking purposes. Later on, it will be filled with water, but not that clean, to be used for bathing and cleaning. Given, water we carried was already finished, this was the only available option.

It was a relatively comfortable night. We collected enough firewood and managed to have three bonfires in three directions those are exposed to wild animals. Though its not ideal for a great camping experience, we hang a powerful battery operated light from a branch above us so we can see any approaching wild animals. So we spent time talking about literature history and what not, as usual. 

After we went to sleep, by around 1.30 am, we heard some human voices and got up to realize we were actually surrounded by armed officers of forest department. They seemed angry as well as surprised of our appearance. Our camp setting would show them we are well prepared campers. Our cool attitude and respectful talking would have implied we are not here for any illegal activity. Staying here without any firearm may have surprised with the quest either we are very brave or very stupid. Anyway, we are in a tertiary under their legal protection without a permit.

We accepted our wrong doing but explained that we (except me) are actually advisors for department of wildlife in many ways and we are not just random hikers barge into a jungle. After talking a bit they were convinced we are not here with any hidden agenda. Niro also showed our maps and GPS locations etc. to prove that our intention was to reach a lesser known archeological site. Anyway, they said they are here to check for illegal poachers since some villagers had complained them about a gun shot they heard while ago. In fact we too heard that from a far. They went deeper into the forest for their mission leaving us.

One guy even showed his surprise that we came without any weapon.

මෙහෙමත් එනවද මේ වගේ ගමං ආයුධයක් වත් නැතුව..

Given we are awake in middle of the night, we had another round of tea before going back to sleep. This time we slept until the sunrise.

Following day, we reached the location that Upli's tractor going to pickup as planned. They had already come. We were very pleased with their professionalism. They had also brought some lunch for us to enjoy on the way. Then we started the hip breaking journey back on the tractor trailer. We were tired but relaxed to be back without major injury or incident considering the scale of risk we took in this mission. Niro wasn't very convinced with the fact we couldn't reach the site given navigation is usually his main task in this kind of expeditions. Seems he takes it personally. Anyway, this is the reality of work we do with nature. 

We reached Upali's place by afternoon. After a wash and tea we started drive back to Colombo. We thanked Upli and his wife for their support which is invaluable. They are in deed some of the nicest people we ever met in this kind of journey. They showed true hospitality of a traditional Sri Lankan villager which is sadly vanishing with commoditization. They are not wealthy but their simple life had taught how to live everyday happily. We all agreed that we should return to their warm home one day.

It was already dark when we entered the highway from Mattale interchange. Both Niro and Devana was exhausted and not sure how they will manage to drive back to Colombo. Once, Devana stopped the van aside the highway just to refresh himself. I never seen that and I found it as a signal he is not fit to drive with this level of exhaustion. Given everybody was more or less sleeping I tried my best to talk by the side of the driver to keep him awake. Luckily we got our consciousness back after fueling with dosage of caffeine through Espresso from a coffee shop at rest area. I was amazed with the magic caffeine can do! We all were back with life. 

We lightly talked about the hike and what went wrong in few occasions afterwards. Like modern day air crash, its due to multiple small errors. Assumption about the nature of the terrain seems to be the biggest obstacle among many. 

Starting from Kotiyagala: we lost some valuable time because we lost the direction at the beginning. Then tractor got stuck in mud leaving us no option but to add extra few miles to already ambitious plan of the day one. Anyway, even all goes well, three days is too ambitious for the mission. What ever it is it tried out resilience and endurance, given all of us are pretty old blokes with Channa turned sixty same year!

Story just don't finishes there.. While we are back in home, it started to feel the outcome of tick bites. Leeches in wet zone are saints with compared with dry zone ticks. It started itchiness and then started the pain. Patches started to appear in places. Pain and itchiness could come in different parts of the body day by day. It lasted for more than a month. Nor ointment could cure them. I could count 38 such places with tick bites - as a souvenir for the memorable expedition in Kumana!

Walk into history of Veddhas in Rathugala

If we plan too much with too many options, chances are that hike or excursion would never happen. For some reason, plan of going to Rathugala (රතුගල) surfaced pretty quickly and all were set. All were more than enthusiastic on the opportunity of walking in the ancient Vedda's trials. Like cherry on the cake, Devana has arranged present Vedda chief of Rathugala, Suda Wannila Aththo (සුදා වන්නිල ඇත්තො) to guide us. 

We all were in thirst of gaining more and more knowledge on Vedda's culture. We all had read fair bit of literature on the subject. I personally have had the opportunity of meeting former Pollebedda Vedda chief, Gombha (ගොඹා). When we were in Batticaloa two years back, we made all our attempt to make contacts with Coastal Veddas (මුහුදු වැද්දො). Rathugala tribe is one of the remaining real Vadda populations which I didn't have the opportunity of meeting so far. So this is not an opportunity to miss by any mean.

After all the preparations, we head to Rathugala department of wildlife office where we had connections with. Though it was only Niro, Channa, Devana and myself were planning to go, Ramani joined in the last minute. Though I had met her a couple of times before, I was bit uneasy of having a lady at first but soon it was proved she is a great company and share the same passion on nature. Ramani had extended knowledge and experience in hiking in Sri Lanka, Borneo and many other countries. She was strong and a good hiker. 

Officers in wildlife department were friendly and helpful. They not only provided all the essential information about the hike, they had prepared us a delicious dinner. After having it we all slept on the verandah of their bungalow, listening to various calls of nocturnal birds.    

We rushed to the Rathugala Vedda's heritage center where we were planning to meet Suda Wannila Aththo. Until chief comes, we explored the historical artifacts and ornaments displayed in the center. One of them also performed a unique music instrument used by Vedda people in old days. That sound was bit close to a violine. It was beautiful, yet for some reason extremely sad to listen. May be its not just the music it produce but our thoughts on questionable future of Vedda community made us sad!

After leaving our van at Wannila Aththos' home we started walking on the main road and later entered the bush that took us to one of the most beautiful natural beauties we have ever witnessed. 

Though Niro is our official navigator, he was pretty much released from usual duties since Wannila Aththo was guiding us. He was navigating through pathless jungle like someone walking in his own backyard. Anyway, Niro always got the coordinates and mapped the path for future use. Perhaps it can be important for department for their work one day. 

All the caves we saw were very primitive looking caves those closely associated with the history of Veddas in Rathugala. Balumgala (බැලුම්ගල) was one of the ridges we passed and it was outstanding with scenic beauty. After walking about 6kms, we reached Heenwala Wadigala (හීන්වල වාඩිගල) to spend the night. This is actually a peak with surrealistic beautiful scenery of Senanayake Smudraya from far. Sunset was out of this world! 

Suda Wannila Aththo is a friendly person with wealth of knowledge ready to be shared. It was much more encouraged after he learning that we had some knowledge and a lot of questions for him. He shared folk storied, songs and details about Vedda's culture with us. When it comes to the dialog on current situation we understood there are disagreements in between Veddas and Department of Wildlife on current forest conservation activities. It is very complex. Protecting the forests, dealing with indigenous people and adhering to law are a hell of a challenge authorities face nowadays. I wonder who can find the right mix to make everybody happy.  

We started walking early on the following day since we were planning to cover more caves. Our enthusiasm made us going out of the way to reach some of the remote ones too. In one point we met a couple of Vedda's who had come to collect some leaves (බීඩි කොල) they could sell. They were surprised to see their chief. They also warned us of an aggressive elephant on the way.

Second day was tough since terrain was difficult and stretch was too long. To add more challenge, we confronted a wild fire on our way. This is the first time I experienced a wildfire that closer. Anyway, we had to change our direction for own safety. 

After walking about 10 kms, we reached the Kaballe Bokke (කැබැල්ල බොක්ක), a place by a stream surrounded by thick forest. If was very appealing due to the easy access to water, yet we all felt its not the safest to spend a night. Place was surrounded by thick forest around. If not the difference of atmospheric characters we felt like in a rain forest. So having a bonfire seemed a must. 

We collected enough firewood to have two bonfires from both sides. One sandy area was cleaned for sleeping. As usual Devana directed us for what is needed for preparation of dinner and superb dinner was ready in no time. Having a bath in that waters was a heavenly relief. As soon as we had the dinner sky got cleared and moon started to appear like a dream. Spending a night in the jungle under the full moon is always a best feeling any nature lover would ask for. Here we are enjoying the very moment!

Though I was tired after a tough day, night was too beautiful for me to leave behind and close the eyes.. I remember I was humming one of my favorite songs while looking at sky.. I also heard Niro and then Devana joined the same.. සඳ හොරෙන් හොරෙන් හොරෙන් බලා.. වලා රොදක සැඟවිලා..

In the morning, Wannila Aththo said that he had heard a noise made by a bear from a distance and he managed to strengthen the bonfire. After having some good breakfast, we started the last leg of the hike. Luckily we didn't encounter the elephant we were warned of. On the way we didn't forget to dip into Rammbukkam Oya (රඹුක්කම් ඔය) and got refreshed before entering the village again.        

After spending little time talking to Wannila Aththo's family, we started our return journey back to Colombo. It was one of the most enjoyable hikes for all of us. 

The forest areas we covered actually belongs to dry zone, but with a difference. This particular area got quite a lot of rich streams full water throughout the year. This made jungle full of lush green vegetation. Some areas were thick and rich: hard to say its dry zone. It was quite clear why ancient Vedda people selected this area as home. In some point, Dr. Spittle has mentioned this area as one of the most beautiful jungles in Sri Lanka. We are not surprised. 

Today I am writing this post while in Australia: memorizing and fantasizing the memorable time spent in jungles of Rathugala of Sri Lanka....In television, I see full report of cyclone Alfred soon to be hit Northern New South Wales and Queensland...   

PS

Suda Wannila Aththo passed away in May 2026 while taking treatments at National Hospital For Respiratory Diseases at Welisara.

Colours of Great Barrier Reef

All in a sudden I decided to do it. Under any circumstance, there are things you should not delay. That’s what I thought when I decided to visit Great Barrier Reef. It’s a fantasy; it’s a dream.

Great Barrier Reef (GBR) is the largest coral reef system on earth that consists of more than 2900 identified individual reefs. Obviously, it’s one of the ultimate wonders of nature. Northern Queensland of Australia is one of the best gateways to GBR.  Coral reefs are the richest ecosystems on earth. Richer than tropical rain forests.

You can select basically one from Cairns or Port Douglas to stay and get in to a diving boat. I selected Cairns due to the easy access to Cairns Airport and my wife can do some shopping while I am away.

If you are flying to North Queensland, February is not the best time, but it’s the best “wallet-friendly” time. “Very hot, Very humid and most of all Very nice people” That’s the first impression about Cairns. It’s not a big city... definitely not Sydney... because people of Cairns have time to smile with someone and willing to please someone.  It’s like somewhere in Sri Lanka. You can make new friends while waiting for a bus. Man made lagoon in the heart of the City is one of the remarkable icons for Cairns.

Onboard community

I travelled in a modern speed boat to the reef as I planned. It contains everything; diving gear, drinks, meals and very comfortable lounge type areas to rest. Most of all, boat was full of people from all around the world who had their own different reasons to do this expedition. It was a good experience to share our knowledge and inspirations. I met a nice guy from Michigan who was bit nervous, but he badly wanted to do this dive. Again I met a middle aged guy from Argentina who was travelling with his twin teenage daughters. I enjoyed his company and his humorous style of talking.

“Well, you are from Argentina... Are you a Football fan?”

“Yep, if you don’t like Football in Argentina, you will be taken to jail..., it’s illegal not to be a fan, so I am a fan!”

“I see... I am a cricket fan in Sri Lanka... the same way”

I was the only black (Asian) guy except for one Fijian diving instructor who was training snorkelling for amateurs. Next significant thing about me within that circle was I am the slimmest of all. When selecting diving gear one crew member was telling “Ladies and perhaps ..Sumedha can use these small size yellow fins...” Then he smiled at me and added... “take it as a compliment mate..” . “Ok, I will” I said to myself.

Diving

I teamed up with few others. It was guided by experienced dive master from Queensland called Rachel. Other team members were my buddy diver Sean and a young couple from UK. Sean was an experienced diver and he wanted to get good photos of the reef, which was my idea too. So it was a good match.

When I dived first... I felt like I am entering to a dream world because my mind was telling me... that I am really in it! I have been waiting for this moment. It was the marvellous warm waters welcome you. If I recall my memory of coral reefs of Hikkaduwa or Trincomalee, I saw more vibrant soft corals in GBR. It is also said that GBR is the healthiest coral reef on earth today. I usually don’t dive more than twice per day, but this time I was too greedy and made three consecutive dives in two different reefs, namely Hastings Reef and Jorgeys Patch. For the second dive, we got in to a small dinghy boat and left for bit far from the main boat.

Inspiration

What Great Barrier Reef means to me? Hm... it’s a long story. When I was very small, probably 7 or 8 old, my parents brought me and my brother to see a documentary film at New Olympia (Colombo) on Great Barrier Reef. I and my brother were amazed with the beauty and were watching the film with surprise. Probably, I would have asked thousands of questions from my father. This film still comes to my mind like a fantasy seen in a distance. That’s the first inspiration of my life to see the Great Barrier Reef... probably I wanted to see that beauty for real. I kept on telling that I am going to see it one day. My father hasn’t been into many tough outdoor activities, but he encouraged us to do all; Cycling, swimming and hiking. Even he let us try climbing a coconut tree, though it was criticized by some of his own relatives. They would have thought that I might select it for living.

As soon as I came to the hotel, I dropped two short e-mails to my Mum and brother telling “I did it!” Unfortunately, my father is not there to share my joyful e-mail. So it is an emotional achievement for me.

While we were sailing back to the land, the Guy from Argentina who became friends with me was having some hot coffee with me. Coffee is the best pal after diving. While having a leisure chat, he asked what make I come this far for this diving. I told him about the documentary film and its inspiration. “This is for my Father and Mother who didn’t forget to guide us to nature, while confronting with all the day-to-day challenges!” I added. He wanted me to tell this story to his daughters.

One day, I will tell this to my daughter too.

Visit the complete Photo collection >>

e-Bird database - Beyond the field note

This post is for people who do birding. Now we have a complete online system to manage the bird watching records. It caters every aspect of maintaining an online birding database. Please try http://ebird.org/content/ebird/
May be you are a recreational bird watcher, whose birding records will not go beyond your field notebook. Through this system you are sharing your valuable data with others who are more serious in the subject and need more data for their studies. For your point of view, your data is stored somewhere safe to refer from anywhere, whenever you need. What I like most is capabilities of analysing my own data and data of all other bird watchers.

Please see few ways I can analyse/summarize my data;

1) My records of Gray Hornbill with locations

2) Ceylon Jungle fowl observations throughout the country

3) Bird observation list of just one birding field trip

These are a very few simple data presentations I prefer as an armature birder, but you can have your own charts and graphs of your choice. Also you can download your data to an excel sheet that enables importing your data for another application.

Credibility of Data

If everybody can freely submit their data, what could be the guarantee we have on data? This is also being handled by e-Bird org carefully. Observations submit to the system is being monitored by a (volunteer) country reviewer who is an expert ornithologist. In simple terms, if you report you observed Blue Magpie in Maradana, you will be asked to discuss and produce your field notes.

I wrote this, especially to encourage non-professional birders to manage and share their valuable data. I know some, who has got very important data, but they wannish with their field note books without any trace.

Dive in to Ship-X

In one of my past posts, I have mentioned my enthusiasm and interest on adventures of Mike and Cleark. They are closely related to Trincomalee where they found an ancient "Swayambhu Linga” with spiritual power and change the history. (i.e. Legend of Mike Wilson) I always wanted to dive in to the waters of Trincomalee that revealed a past history that had been hidden down the lockers of Davy Jone! When it came in real, it was like surfing through the past legend.

Recently, I had the great time diving in the coast of Trinco (Actually Nilaweli and Irrakkakandy). As usual Menaka was leading the diving team and our team was consisted of a Russian Underwater videographer/ Padi instructor from Moscow, a teenage girl from Switzerland, Devana and me. Menaka is the most capable dive master I have ever dived with.

Our diving plan was to dive the Pigeons Rock first and then to the Irrakkakandy ship wreck. When we dive in Pigeons Rock it had perfect conditions that gave us the best opportunity of feeling the fantastic beauty. Corals were so live and perfectly coloured. Marine creatures were all over. We managed to observe number of new fish species that we have never spotted in Hikkaduwa. Perfect conditions gave our videographer to capture the beauty without any obstacles. It was not that deep, so we managed to spend 78 minutes under water!

The Ship-X

After having some rest in the Pigeons Island we sailed to our next destination; the Irrakkakandy ship wreck. Ship wrecks: always mysterious, historical and my favourite.

Even though, visibility had vanished while we were descending, sunlight became brighter in the next moment. Wreck was lying beneath the shallow sea about 12m down.

It was a massive ship with no records at all! Indeed it is a mystery. No one has ever discovered the identity of this ship and whereabouts. While I was diving, I was imagining, what can be the tragic story of this ship and its sailors. What made this sinful mistake?

This ship should be fairly old but one can identify the remaining as parts of engine room and so on. Live corals had changed the shapes of most of the artefacts scattered on the sea bed.

One experienced diver has written about this ship in the dive Sri Lanka website and he suspects this as a ship with a British origin. I am now waiting till I meet our friend, marine archaeologist, Rasika Muthukumarana to see whether he can give us some hints on this mysterious ship. According to the local fishermen, wreck is still being watched by its captain’s soul.

While I write this report today, I am in my office, looking at the mighty Indian Ocean through my window and the ships that emerge from the horizon and sail towards Colombo port. Still my mind is full of unanswered questions about the Irrakkakandy ship and its tragedy. Can remaining of the ship help a historian to solve the hidden story? I don’t know! What I know is I really need to dive in to this mystery again.

Below photos were taken during our expedition;

Getting ready with the gear..

New Irrakkakandy bridge

Pigeons Island

Resting at Pigeons Island before the second dive..

Exploring Nuwara Gala – the second leg

Click here for article on our first expedition.

We all were quite amazed to explore Nuwara-Gala when we saw it for the first time. I revealed about it in one of my past posts. We decided to have an excursion again in November 2009, after the terrorism problem is over in the area.

As usual we left Colombo very early in the morning and head to Pollebedda via Maha Oya. We were aware about the severe drought in the area and got prepared with necessary drinking water with us.

Once we stepped in to the village we saw a lot of changes. We spent our first night in the school (Pollebedda Maha Vidyalay) and it had been developed so much. Last time we saw only a couple of poor buildings, but it had been converted to a big school with an increased number of students. Even the village economy seemed to have gained some growth may be with the Rambakan Oya irrigation project. Such development projects occur with the villages could even make devastating changes to day to day lives of the people and their society.

We couldn’t meet the old Wedda chief Gomba this time, but we heard that he was so old and spending most of the time on a wheel chair.

Wijaya who guided us to the Nuwara-Gala last time, also joined us with two other experienced trackers, (Gunabanda & Dharmadasa) who are very friendly and experts in the subject as same as Wijaya. We started our hike following early morning and it was so hot and weather was as dry as could be. Forest hadn’t experienced rain for last 6 months and strong wind was quite unbearable when we go up the top of the rock. Spending the night in the cave where we used last time, seemed quite impossible with the increasing winds in the late hours. So we spent (mostly sleepless!) our second night on the rock surface. We time to time changed the locations to find safe places from the wind, but it wasn’t possible at all.

Forest was not with much difference, but as we explained in the previous post this forest is very much exposed to illegal timber traders and poaching. Positive change was, water in the pond on the top of the rock was bit more cleanly and we used them for washing.

Anyway, I guess, it is high time to take steps to conserve this historically valuable place for future generations. Under current condition, anyone can destroy the ruins and historically valuable entities.

It was as tough as last time but we managed to get the real fruit of the dry zone hike. Mostly we were better equipped with knowledge about the area and relevant surrounding through Dr.Spittle’s and Mr.Douglas B.Ranasinghe’s books.

Below are only few of the photographs taken by Uresh and Roshan.

It’s a good walk through the dry grassy lands

A lot of room for photography!

Man made pond on the rock surface on the top

Cave which we used to spend night last time.

Nuwara Gala – a hidden fortress - the first visit

Click here for article on our second expedition.

One of the old posts, I discussed my experience with Dimbulaga exploration. It should be one of the hidden fortresses like places in Sri Lanka. There is another rock full of ruins of a massive fortress and this is also a hidden one by means, till today. Now we are going to talk about “Nuwara Gala”.
In my school days, once I am given a very nice book about expeditions by a team of wildlife enthusiasts, who tried to explore nice natural places of Sri Lanka. Actually that book made me interested in hiking and nature expeditions. This book was almost a basic guide book to young people who wish to explore such beautiful places. Mr. Douglass B. Ranasinghe (a reputed bird watcher and wildlife enthusiast)* is the author of this book called “Maki Yana Wana Peth” (i.e. vanishing trails). It contained a chapter that illustrates how they explored this massive yet hidden site a long time back.

It took us decades to do the same expedition, since the relevant area was highly affected by the LTTE terrorist activities. Anyway, we headed to this wonderful site in 2002 sepetember, when it was the ceasefire and quite safe to enter the location.

First, we went to Pollebeddha School to prepare our stuff and spend the night before starting the hike early next day. It was a very nice place and principal too was a very nice gentleman. The Vedda chief Gomba came to see us in the same evening when he got to knew that some people had come from Colombo. He was so old than we saw in pictures in the book. When he was having a leisure chat, he revealed about his interactions with Dr. Spittle and good old time stories. Most of all, he told how much he miss Dr.Spittle and he at least wanted to see his daughter.

Old Chief Vaddha, Gomba was telling me his good old stories..

There is something else I want to note here: These Veddha’s life conditions seemed so pathetic. Their lives had been vastly affected by poverty. May be due to lack of knowledge on family planning, their families had become unbearably big, yet they didn’t have any means of earning money to feed them. We just shared some of the food we brought, but it showed the need of a long term rehabilitation program for this community. Not like Veddas of Dambana, this community seemed to have a lack of knowledge on outside world and lack of communication with authorities.

After a couple of years, I saw in the newspapers, that Gomba had been awarded the Kala-Bhooshana award for his contribution towards the culture of Sri Lanka. Of course, it is admirable since they carry some historical and vanishing cultural values to Sri Lankan society, but steps are to be taken to improve their living standards too.

We started the hike the following day with two guides from the village, namely Wijeya and Sadhathissa. Wijaya was an expert on jungle life with unbelievable instinct. He said he was hunting animals for his living. He was with a mysterious and weather beaten face. Our theories on wildlife conservation seemed inapplicable for these people who have day to day confrontations with bitter poverty. We walked behind him and he was leading the team; walked without any noise or talk; carrying his illegal shot gun. Each time, we met a wild animal, Wijaya managed to give us notice in advance! I think he had very much developed ability to smell or hear those in a distance. Sadhathissa was a much talkative small-made person who managed to tell us their experiences with wildlife and some narrow escapes from terrorists!

Under the shades of terrorism, tree-cutting had been done massively and naked earth had been exposed to intense heat of sunlight which made our walking too so difficult, when it was reaching noon.

Our initial plan was to go up to the top of the rock and see the historical pool full of clear water and then we spend the night in the nearby cave right down the ridge of mountain facing a dangerous looking steep.

We had done a big mistake by relying on one spring of water. When we reached, it had been dried and drinking water we carried was not enough to spend two days! I was already dehydrated, that made me difficult to move further. Anyway, we decided to find some more sources for water but I said I need to sit and rest so others could proceed with searching. Due to the threat of wild elephants in the area, keeping me alone for resting seemed foolish and Dr.Nihal volunteered to stay with me with some fire-crackers to use in case. Anyway, search hadn’t been successful, but we came up with the bright idea of using the water in the pool up on the rock for drinking after boiling. I felt much better after some rest and consuming some dried date fruits and Jeewani. We reached the top of the fortress around 3 pm and it was a fantastic feeling!

It was quite hard to believe that a man made pool full of water could remain in such a high altitude. This was a marvelous piece of evidence for the prosperity and high life style existed in the past within the fortress. Mr.Ranasinghe’s book says that water was so pure that they managed to have a nice bath in it, but we saw the pool had been infected with algae and bathing was impossible.

We heard a very strange story from Sadhathissa which explained how this pond got polluted. It was as below;

“It was 1989, where whole country was having a dark time with the rise of young generation against the government. We were coming towards Nuwara Gala for a hunt.. When we reached the top we saw some uniformed people are occupying there.. we also saw a helicopter and few civil people and I identified one of the famous politicians son within them… in a little time those armed people started shooting at us.. We vanished through the bushes and came straight to the village and hide… After that we observed they had tried to pump water out and find something… we didn’t know whether it was treasure, anyhow water within the pool got polluted after this incident!” (Note :I can’t guarantee about the truth of this, but this is what I was told)

After spending some time near the pool we came to the cave and spent the night. It was a Poya day and night was as amazing as could be. View of the jungle towards the steep was like a water color painting.. moon light had given a fantastic glittering effect which made us watching it for a long time before going to sleep.

Next day, we came back in a different route which was rich with most of the ruins and rich historic structures.
Night I spent in Nuwara Gala cave is one of the best nights I have ever spent in wild!

Team before starting the hike (with Vijaya, Sadhatissa and Heen Kaira)

Valuable artifacts to be studied by archaeologists.

Dangerous yet, beautiful steep down the cave

Note
* After sometime, Dr.Nihal Dayawansa introduced us to Mr. Douglass B. Ranasinghe and we told him how his book infected us with enthusiasm for exploring the wild. We also managed to discuss and compare the changes we saw in Nuwara Gala after decades. We wanted to visit this site again as an one group consist of both generations, but couldn’t materialize it till today.