If we plan too much with too many options, chances are that hike or excursion would never happen. For some reason, plan of going to Rathugala (රතුගල) surfaced pretty quickly and all were set. All were more than enthusiastic on the opportunity of walking in the ancient Vedda's trials. Like cherry on the cake, Devana has arranged present Vedda chief of Rathugala, Suda Wannila Aththo (සුදා වන්නිල ඇත්තො) to guide us.
We all were in thirst of gaining more and more knowledge on Vedda's culture. We all had read fair bit of literature on the subject. I personally have had the opportunity of meeting former Pollebedda Vedda chief, Gombha (ගොඹා). When we were in Batticaloa two years back, we made all our attempt to make contacts with Coastal Veddas (මුහුදු වැද්දො). Rathugala tribe is one of the remaining real Vadda populations which I didn't have the opportunity of meeting so far. So this is not an opportunity to miss by any mean.
After all the preparations, we head to Rathugala department of wildlife office where we had connections with. Though it was only Niro, Channa, Devana and myself were planning to go, Ramani joined in the last minute. Though I had met her a couple of times before, I was bit uneasy of having a lady at first but soon it was proved she is a great company and share the same passion on nature. Ramani had extended knowledge and experience in hiking in Sri Lanka, Borneo and many other countries. She was strong and a good hiker.
Officers in wildlife department were friendly and helpful. They not only provided all the essential information about the hike, they had prepared us a delicious dinner. After having it we all slept on the verandah of their bungalow, listening to various calls of nocturnal birds.
We rushed to the Rathugala Vedda's heritage center where we were planning to meet Suda Wannila Aththo. Until chief comes, we explored the historical artifacts and ornaments displayed in the center. One of them also performed a unique music instrument used by Vedda people in old days. That sound was bit close to a violine. It was beautiful, yet for some reason extremely sad to listen. May be its not just the music it produce but our thoughts on questionable future of Vedda community made us sad!
After leaving our van at Wannila Aththos' home we started walking on the main road and later entered the bush that took us to one of the most beautiful natural beauties we have ever witnessed.
Though Niro is our official navigator, he was pretty much released from usual duties since Wannila Aththo was guiding us. He was navigating through pathless jungle like someone walking in his own backyard. Anyway, Niro always got the coordinates and mapped the path for future use. Perhaps it can be important for department for their work one day.
All the caves we saw were very primitive looking caves those closely associated with the history of Veddas in Rathugala. Balumgala (බැලුම්ගල) was one of the ridges we passed and it was outstanding with scenic beauty. After walking about 6kms, we reached Heenwala Wadigala (හීන්වල වාඩිගල) to spend the night. This is actually a peak with surrealistic beautiful scenery of Senanayake Smudraya from far. Sunset was out of this world!
Suda Wannila Aththo is a friendly person with wealth of knowledge ready to be shared. It was much more encouraged after he learning that we had some knowledge and a lot of questions for him. He shared folk storied, songs and details about Vedda's culture with us. When it comes to the dialog on current situation we understood there are disagreements in between Veddas and Department of Wildlife on current forest conservation activities. It is very complex. Protecting the forests, dealing with indigenous people and adhering to law are a hell of a challenge authorities face nowadays. I wonder who can find the right mix to make everybody happy.
We started walking early on the following day since we were planning to cover more caves. Our enthusiasm made us going out of the way to reach some of the remote ones too. In one point we met a couple of Vedda's who had come to collect some leaves (බීඩි කොල) they could sell. They were surprised to see their chief. They also warned us of an aggressive elephant on the way.
Second day was tough since terrain was difficult and stretch was too long. To add more challenge, we confronted a wild fire on our way. This is the first time I experienced a wildfire that closer. Anyway, we had to change our direction for own safety.
After walking about 10 kms, we reached the Kaballe Bokke (කැබැල්ල බොක්ක), a place by a stream surrounded by thick forest. If was very appealing due to the easy access to water, yet we all felt its not the safest to spend a night. Place was surrounded by thick forest around. If not the difference of atmospheric characters we felt like in a rain forest. So having a bonfire seemed a must.
We collected enough firewood to have two bonfires from both sides. One sandy area was cleaned for sleeping. As usual Devana directed us for what is needed for preparation of dinner and superb dinner was ready in no time. Having a bath in that waters was a heavenly relief. As soon as we had the dinner sky got cleared and moon started to appear like a dream. Spending a night in the jungle under the full moon is always a best feeling any nature lover would ask for. Here we are enjoying the very moment!
Though I was tired after a tough day, night was too beautiful for me to leave behind and close the eyes.. I remember I was humming one of my favorite songs while looking at sky.. I also heard Niro and then Devana joined the same.. සඳ හොරෙන් හොරෙන් හොරෙන් බලා.. වලා රොදක සැඟවිලා..
In the morning, Wannila Aththo said that he had heard a noise made by a bear from a distance and he managed to strengthen the bonfire. After having some good breakfast, we started the last leg of the hike. Luckily we didn't encounter the elephant we were warned of. On the way we didn't forget to dip into Rammbukkam Oya (රඹුක්කම් ඔය) and got refreshed before entering the village again.
After spending little time talking to Wannila Aththo's family, we started our return journey back to Colombo. It was one of the most enjoyable hikes for all of us.
The forest areas we covered actually belongs to dry zone, but with a difference. This particular area got quite a lot of rich streams full water throughout the year. This made jungle full of lush green vegetation. Some areas were thick and rich: hard to say its dry zone. It was quite clear why ancient Vedda people selected this area as home. In some point, Dr. Spittle has mentioned this area as one of the most beautiful jungles in Sri Lanka. We are not surprised.
Today I am writing this post while in Australia: memorizing and fantasizing the memorable time spent in jungles of Rathugala of Sri Lanka....In television, I see full report of cyclone Alfred soon to be hit Northern New South Wales and Queensland...
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